Untitled Document

25 Mar 05 - Santiago, Chile.

I came across a magazine with fantastic photos of dogs and thier owners.

I also include 'I' and 'J' who are sisters. One of whom's owner is my big sister. Which is she?

This is all based on genuine research as recently featured in 'The Economist' - 'Love Me Love My Dog' - Dogs and Thier Owners Do Resemble One Another'.

Tomorrow, if I wake up in time, I'll be in Easter Island.



Seen on the Road - See left and below.

OTR Chillan
Match the Dog

Paseo Tromen

Current Position


01 Mar 2005 - Bariloche, Argentina.

I arrived back in Argentina on Tuesday 15th Feb and found Fred exactly where I left him: padlocked to the hotel's railings.

I knew he was still there because Greg mailed me a few weeks ago saying he was fine.

I now have a Sky Wave unit to Fred which automatically sends my position to an Inmarsat satellite. This relays it to Touratech's computers which create the maps on my 'Current Position' page.

I will never be lost again.

Just 'there'.


Seen on the Road - See left and below.

Best Biking Roads
- Austral

Carretera Austral
- Tarred Bit
- Drowned Bit
- Burnt Bit
- 2nd Bit
- 1st Bit
Dramatic Reconstruction
OTR Cochrane

Almost in Chile
Seen on Ruta 40
Ruta 40
El Chaiten & Fitzroy Peak
Perito Moreno Glacier
OTR Calafate
Mozambique Warning
The Questionnaire


Current Position
Best Photos

12 Dec 2004 - London, England

After two days in Ushuaia at the bottom of Argentina I decided to return home for a short holiday and to visit another dentist.

My teeth are not right and I wasn't enjoying my trip anymore. Fred is also resting in Rio Gallegos and I hope to rejoin him in the New Year.

The Surprise
OTR Ushuaia
Patagonian Bikers
Trelew Shopping
Patagonian Clouds
OTR Patagonia
Whale Watching

Best Photos
Current Postion

17 Nov 2004
- Bahia Blanca , Argentina

I have had the root canal done by the lovely Iracema in Sao Paolo and the post and crown by Juan in Buenos Aires.

I think I have spotted a gap in the market. It's amazing no one has ever thought of it before.

All the dentists will be appearing in my forthcoming 'Good Dentists Guide to South America'.

I'm now heading south to Patagonia.

Fangio Museum
OTR Buenos Aires
- Fazenda San Francisco
    Night Drive
    Fly Bys

Best Photos
Current Postion

07 Nov 2004 - Sao Paulo, Brazil

I was in the Pantanal and had just seen my first toucan as it flew across the road in front of me.

Shortly afterwards I received the siren call to visit another dentist.

'I'm not putting you under any pressure
  OTR Pantanal
  1,000 km Day
  Buying My Bike
  Beetle in France
  USA - Suches, Georgia
  USA - Blue Ridge Parkway

but I can start the root canal treatment now' said Bianca.

I asked her how many she'd done before but she didn't answer my question. So here I am again in Sao Paulo.

27 Oct 2004 - Sao Paulo, Brazil

The parts arrived on time but unfortunately with two inlet rocker arms instead of one inlet and one exhaust.

Rather than sit and wait for it I used the old one and went to Rio...

One night in Rio was enough for me because the parts arrived today (Monday). Yippee.

Bike Wheel
Rio de Janiero
OTR Rio de Janiero
Best Biking Roads - Santos to Rio
Pooh with a View
Kitiwake Building
Km per Litre
Seen On The Road
Jonas' groovy helmet on the Bertioga ferry.
Lessons Learnt
Bike Faults & Fixes
Best Photos

16 Oct 2004
- Sao Paulo, Brazil

The parts were only sent on Friday so won't be here until Tuesday next week at the earliest.

I have added descriptions to the best photos.

Added: Updated:
Inlet Cam Follower Best Photos Americas
Panniers Best Photos Africa
Shock Bushing KTM Dealers
The Knock 2  

11 Oct 2004 - Sao Paulo, Brazil

I am not supposed to be here.

This is a unplanned detour to my stately southerly progress.

I had planned to continue down the Chilean coast but decided I had had enough of Bolivian rocks at 5,000m. I therefore headed east into Argentina to see the Iguazu waterfalls.

Many people have said told me they were one of thier South American highlights.

On the way to Iguazu my bike started making funny noises. KTM's website shows there are a lot more dealers in Sao Paulo than Buenos Aires so I headed for the KTM importer in SP.

Luckily both the boss, Waldyr and Fabrizio, the mechanic, speak fluent English.

I'll be here for awhile whilst I wait for the parts to arrive from Germany.

I'll then visit Rio while I'm so close before heading south again.

Two Showers?  
OTR Sao Paulo
Iguazu Falls
OTR Iguazu
Love Hotel
Chain Gang 2
OTR Salta  
Border Blockade  
Best Photos  
Seen On The Road

Quintono, Arias, Utrera, Marlene & Aquino.
Hoffart & Jorge.

Jorge welded the link on.
Maria & Belen
Juan, Hernan & Daniel.

Juan fixed my chain.
Helped me find a new chain the next day.

30 Sept 2004 - Tuipza, Bolivia

This is an beautiful place, lots of trees, warm and only at 3,300m.

It is best known as Butch Cassidy and Sundance country. Their last robbery was only a few kilometres away.
OTR Tupiza
Salar Uyuni
OTR Uyuni
OTR Sucre
OTR La Paz
Seen On The Road

My bike stopped outside an army depot coming into La Paz.
Ian is walking north from the tip of Chile to Alaska. After one year he's in Bolivia.
Maxi, Ana, Sarah, Catherine & Steve on the Isla de Pescadora
Alejo, driving tourists around the Salar Circuit.

23 Sept 2004 - Copacabana, Bolivia

I'm still on Lake Titicaca but in a very much smaller and more laid back town on the lakeshore.

I got my bike blessed on Saturday. I may do it again soon.

Copacabana Sunset
Isla del Sol
Bike Blessing

09 Sept 2004 Lake Titicaca, Peru

It's getting colder. Titicaca is at 3,856m and might be the highest navigable lake in the world.

I hope to be in Bolivia to get my bike blessed in Copacabana on Sunday.

Colca Canyon
- Condors
- Viewpoint
OTR Colca Canyon

04 Sept 2004 - Cuzco, Peru

I've just returned from Machu Picchu.

What an incredible place.

Tomorrow I am leaving for Aeriquippa and hope to have my bike blessed in church on Sunday week in Bolivia.

Machu Pichu:
- Inca Bridge
- Classic Views
- Terraces
OTR Ollantaytambo

Seen On The Road

These are some of the people I have recently met OTR:

Nazca Cemetery 1
I met Christian, Pibe, Lucio and Emilio by accident by taking completely the wrong road. Quel surprise.

OTR Nazca
He is walking from one end of Peru to the other. the Chilean border to the Ecuadorian one. 2,000 km as the condor flies.
In Lima  
Richard & Jane. Mr & Mrs Heaphy
21 Aug 2004 - Cuzco, Peru

I've finally made it to my second big destination after The Galapagos Islands.

Richard & Jane
I lost my sidestand
OTR Cuzco
Nazca Cemetery 2
Nazca Cemetery 1
Nazca Lines
OTR Nazca
OTR Lima Again
I lost my helmet
Shrink Tests  
Spec Problem  

18 Jul 2004: Lima, Peru
Latest Update

I'm currently getting my bike serviced and am actually excited to be in a big city again with lots of shops. (Normally I try to avoid cities altogether).

Next are the Nasca Lines, Cusco and Machu Pichu.
OTR Lima Micheal Jackson
Chavin de Huantar
OTR Chavin My Sister
Advanced Driving Skills
Best Photos

Selected Disasters
I Lost my Wallet
I Lost my ATM Card
Room Service
T Shirt Strainer
P's Hit & Run
Advanced Driving Skills
My Bike's Been Stolen

Evolution of the Tourist

Just before my trip to the Galapagos Islands I developed a guide to identify the different Species of Tourist.
Seen On The Road

These are some of the people I have recently met OTR:

OTR to Lima  
At Catac Petrol Station - I'm afraid I lost your names. In Catac
OTR to Chavin  
Wuilliam, Juan, Joel, Guillermo.
Wuilliam, Juan, Joel & Guillermo
I met Jaero waiting for the digger to let me past.
My bike stopped for the first time and these men helped me change the spark plug. I'm sorry but I lost your names.
Near Caraz Puyo Raimondi
Patricinio kindly helped me photograph my first alapaca.

This section is intentionally blank.


10 Jul 2004: Caraz, Peru

I've just returned from a four day hike through the Santa Cruz valley.

I delayed the start twice. Firstly, because I had been fed something strange and secondly because the weather was not too good. I am glad I waited as I was joined on by the lovely Lisa who travels very light considering how much luggage she's got.

Added: P Santa Cruz Trek 3 & 4 Trek Days 1 & 2 Alpamayo
  P Caraz P Laguna 69

26 Jun 2004: Trujillo, Peru

A truly amazing ride from Chacha to Cajmarca. There were unbelievable views and drops over the edge of the single track road. Several times the road was cut straight across a near vertical rock face. I went very slowly around the corners, often on completely the wrong side of the road to keep away from the edge.

Shortly after leaving Chacha I realised my GPS wasn't working anymore. When I left Cajamarca early the next day I realised neither my headlights nor speedo were working either. Things really do come in threes. i wonder how they know.

Tomorrow I'm heading for the Cordillera Blanca, the main hiking area of Peru.

Added: Chan Chan Moche Pyramids Chan Chan
  El Brujo OTR to Trujillo
  OTR to Celedin Fixing the Headlight
Updated: How to Fix It  

19 Jun 2004: Chachapoyas, Peru

My parts cleared Peruvian Customs on Thursday 10th June and should have arrive here on Saturday 12th. I eventually got them late on Thursday evening - One week to go 650 km from Lima to Chacha when it only took three days to do the 10,500 km from Germany to Lima!

I have made a few changes which I hope will speed things up a bit including:
removing the top row of photos to enlarge the viewable area
made it possible to change the text size to make it easier to read. However, with the largest sizes, some of the tables will spread out to the right a lot.

Added: Kiocta Caves City of the Dead Karajia Sarcophogi
  Hiking to CoD OTR to Lamud
  How to Fix It Fixing my Bike
    Google Search  
Changed the African site to a frames site so it loads a lot faster.
  Best Photos    

07 Jun 2004: Chachapoyas, Peru

Peruvian Mad Cow.

They had it first. They have had it for hundreds of years.

It runs around in every town square through out the country with fireworks exploding out of it's bum.

This is Tourist Week in Chacha. Saturday was the colourful regional parade followed by an amazing fireworks display.

My parts are now in Customs at Lima. Will they ever clear?

Added: PD Chacha Regional Parade   Tower Spinner
  PD Chacha Fireworks PD Chacha People
Updated: Best Photos  

03 Jun 2004: Chachapoyas, Peru

I've just returned from my trek. It wasn't on horses but mules and I managed not to fall off because I never got on one in the first place.

The best bit was pretending to be Indiana Jones on the third day of the hike.

The worst bit was getting back to Chacha to discover that the top triple clamp on my bike has broken. I may be here some time, depending on Peruvian Customs clearance delays.

Added: PD Kuelap Ruins P New Products Juan, Maria, Nelson, Irma
  PD Being Indiana Jones P Vista Hermosa
  PD Trek Day 1 - Belen PD Trek Day 2
  PD Karajia Mummies D Bike Problem New Products
Updated: Best Photos  

24 May 04: Chachapoyas, Peru

I've finally made it to Peru.

I am currently trying to decide whether to go on a five day hike around various ruins which end with Kuelap. Kuelap is a 'spectacular pre-Inca walled city that contains three times more stone than the Great Pyramid at Giza in Egypt'.

The tricky bit is that three of the days are on horse back and the last time I rode was, er, about twenty years ago when I lost both stirrups and fell off.
Pages Added: P OTR Chachapoyas P OTR Jaen Carlos and Fernando
  D Border Crossing PD Mandango Hike
  M Peru P Vilcabamba
  P Miss Universe 2  

15 May 04: Cuenca, Ecuador

I haven't got very far from Quito but have completely redesigned the whole of the Americas site.

It is now a 'frames' site so the menu side should always stay the same whilst only this side changes. Hopefully it will now load faster.

Pages Added: P Miss Universe 1 P Cuenca Miss Universe 2003
  P OTR to Cuenca PD Chain Gang
    P Quito

23 Apr 04 Quito, Ecuador

I've just returned from a weeks cruise around the Galapagos Islands.

Here are some photos of some strange animals and some equally strange people I met on the boat.

Pages Added: P The Yachties D Sea Lion Swim
  P Fernandina P Bartholomew
  P Isabella - Urbina Bay P Isabella - Liz's Bay
  P Santa Cruz - CDRS P Isabella - Punta Moreno
  P Espanola -Gardner Bay P Floreana - Cormorant
  P North Seymour P Espanola -Punta Suarez
  P Best Photos to Date  

14 April 04 Quito, Ecuador    
I went to Cartagena and Bogota, Colombia to see if I was brave enough to ride from Bogota to Quito.

I wasn't, so I flew to Quito.

There are so many things to see and do in Ecuador. It's like being seven again and given the keys to the toyshop for a whole weekend. I've just come back from four days in the rain forest staying at Kapawi Lodge a concession granted by the Achuar people.

Tomorrow I'm flying to the Galapagos Islands. On my return I'll be able to send yet another update with lots of out of focus photos of Darwin's finches that all look remarkably similar....
  Pages Added: P Kapawi Fly In P Kapawi Plant Life
    P Kapawi Achuar D Travelling Species
    D Ride to Quito? P OTR in Ecuador
    D Books Read D Perfect Hotel Room
    PD Cartagena  

27 Mar 04 Panama City, Panama

It's quite warm (35 degrees C) and humid here. This is a quick update before I head off to Quito, Ecuador.
  Pages Added: P Teotihuacan P Panama
    P Wide Angle 2 P Taxco N's Workshop
    P More Butterflies 3 P Puerto Viejo
    D The Knock  

15 Mar 04
San Jose, Costa Rica

Costa Rica has the brightest, greenest greens I've ever seen. Next item is to look at some big balls on a small island. No one knows where they came from or what they're for. I don't think many people go there.

I have moved all the previous updates onto a new Update History page so this one now loads more quickly.
  Pages Added Manuella's Books Jodie
    Monteverde KTM Breakdown
    A Fabulous Day OTR to Nicaragua
    Worst Day 2  

05 Mar 04 Antigua, Guatemala

Tomorrow I'm heading for the Honduran border and the Copan Ruins.
  Pages Added Stop That Noise! The Accident
    Antigua OTR to Guatemala

27 Feb 04
Palenque, Mexico

It's good to be on the road again. I've just visited the amazing Mayan ruins at Palenque. It was raining nearly the whole time. I'm afraid there are no wide angle shots until I get the film developed.
  Pages Added Palenque Bike on a Bike - Plan C
    Changing Bulbs On The Road

20 Feb 04
Valle de Bravo, Mexico

I'm nearly on the road again. All I have to do is decide whether to leave behind one third of my stuff and take my bicycle with me or sell it and carry on as before. Once I've decided what to do I'll head for Oaxaca (Waa-haca). From there I'll head south to the turtle area on the southern coast between Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel.

To celebrate the start of part two of my trip I've painted the rest of the KTM black. Colour co-ordination is so important. I'll have plenty of time to regret this later on.
  Pages Added Best Photos Bike on Bike - Plan A
    Where's Valle? Bike on Bike - Ride A
    Wide Angle Shots Bike on Bike - Plan B
    Ear Plugs Don't Smoke & Ride
      M = Country Maps
  Changed:   Faults and Fixes

31 Jan 04
Valle de Bravo, Mexico

Well, I'm still in Valle learning Spanish. Although I have learnt quite a bit I will to stay for another month to get even better. Juan, thank you for letting me stay in your house.
I have also restructured the menu tree to show where I was.
  Pages Added: Bike on a Bike? Bike on a Bike in the Snow
    My New Bicycle
    Neto's Workshop
    Cliff Divers Acapulco
    Road to Toluca
    My Worst Day I Lost My ATM Card
    Batopilas Andre's Bear
    P's Hit and Run G & T's Burglar
    Donkeys Against Rape
  Pages Changed:
I have completed the Country Summary statistics for all the American countries.

20 Dec 03
Valle de Bravo, Mexico

I'm spending Christmas and New Year in Valle whilst doing my Spanish homework and trying to learn lots of vocabulary, but it's rather like being back at school.
  Pages Added Biker Bites Dog Ministry Letters
    The Africa '02 menu structure to the same as Americas '03 to make it easier to use.

01 Dec 03
Valle de Bravo, Mexico

VdB is a beautiful town on the edge of a large lake, only two hours away from Mexico City. It is the 'French Riviera' for the wealthy and a lovely place in which to learn Spanish.

I was going to do a Spanish course in Guatemala but it seems silly not to do it as soon as possible since I'll be spending more time in Mexico than in any other country. I expect to be here for at least a month.

Therefore, I doubt I'll update this site until the New Year.

I wish you a very Happy Christmas.
  Pages Added More Butterflies Cynthia, Anna and Cecilia
    My Birthday
    Valle de Bravo
    Travelling Light My Birthday
    Packing List
    Photo Workflow
    Laptop Backups

22 Nov 03
Anagangeo, Mexico

I finally made it to the Butterfly Reserve three days ago. Unfortunately, it didn't open for three days, so I waited in Anganageo - the only tourist in town.

I'm glad I waited. Wow. As I write this I'm thinking of going back there again.
  Pages Added Monarch Reserve Monarch Butterflies
    Monarch Facts
    T-Shirt Strainer A Girl Butterfly
    Driving the Train
    At the Packers Morelia

16 Nov 03
Guadalajara, Mexico

I haven't quite reached the Butterfly Reserve yet. I've had a small oil leak and then met up with some other bikers and a Brit couple on a rtw trip.
  Pages Added To Guadlajara Beach Team
    Punta Perula
    Room Service!
    Puerto Vallarta
Mazatlan Hospital
    Nice Lady?

03 Nov 03
Creel, Mexico

I actually made it to the bike rally in Mexico (in spite of loosing my wallet four days ago in Texas (see Police Stop)). Now the stress of making the rally is over I can start on the real trip and I am excited about visiting the Monarch Butterfly Resererve at Mariposa north west of Mexico City.
  Pages Added Police Stop! TWO Bikers Camp
    Texas Herd of Donkeys
    Blue Ridge Pkwy

17 Oct 03
Riverside, Connecticut, USA

After a quick shake down trip of one night in a very chilly, wet and windy Vermont I'm finally setting off for Mexico tomorrow morning.
  Pages Added Vermont Fall Vermont Fall
    Cape Cod
    Don't Touch That

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